Gas Safe registered
Vokera specialists
Easi-Heat, Mynute, Evolve and the older Linea and Unica. Twenty years on Vokera boilers, rates agreed beforehand, and parts guaranteed for a year.
Answered 24 hours a day by a technical customer service member.
Vokera use three code formats across their ranges, so the same fault can read A03 on one boiler and E030 on another.
No heating or hot water right now? Call 0203 868 6134. We will tell you the earliest realistic slot rather than the one you want to hear.
Two details to start. Add the fault code and your postcode and we can usually tell you the likely part before we attend.
Three steps, no sales pitch, and you will know where you stand before an engineer is booked.
If somebody has told you to press reset and you cannot find the button, you are not being slow. A large part of the Vokera range has no reset button at all. Some models reset through a mode selector dial and the older ones through a temperature dial, so the standard advice for every other make is useless here. Tell us the range and we will talk you through the one that applies to yours.
Vokera build on Riello engineering, and the failure pattern is a familiar one once you know which range you are looking at. Six parts cover most of it.
Most manufacturers use one code system. Vokera use three, depending on which range you own, and the same underlying fault appears under a different code in each. That single fact explains most of the confusion around this brand.
What the boiler is saying: it tried to light and could not detect a flame, so it locked out. The most common Vokera fault by a distance, and on Evolve models the same thing reads as E10.
The most likely innocent cause: a temporary gas interruption. If the supply dipped, the boiler locks out and stays locked out even after the gas comes back. One reset clears it and it never returns.
Check first: does a gas hob light? Is there credit on a prepayment meter? An A01 with no gas anywhere in the property is not a boiler fault.
In winter: the condensate pipe. That white plastic pipe running outside freezes, the boiler cannot discharge and it will not light. Pour warm water along it, never boiling, which splits it.
If it keeps coming back: the ignition system, the gas valve or the burner, and that is engineer work rather than something to keep resetting.
Did it clear on one reset, or does it keep returning? Different answers.
Shown on Mynute models. On other ranges the same fault appears under a different code, which is exactly the problem this brand creates for anybody searching online.
What you can safely do: check the gauge with the boiler off and cool, then refill through the filling loop until it reads between 1 and 1.5 bar, close both valves and reset once. This is the one Vokera fault most householders can clear themselves.
What this is not: a boiler fault. The boiler is reporting the water in your pipework.
If the gauge reads a healthy 1.2 bar and the code is still there, the pressure sensor has failed rather than the pressure. Small part, short job.
What does the gauge read? That number decides which of these it is.
The limit thermostat watches the boiler temperature to prevent an overheat, and A02 means it has operated. E020 is the same fault on Evolve models.
What to do first: let it cool fully. Then check the radiators have been bled and the pressure is correct before resetting once.
What this normally turns out to be: circulation rather than the burner. A jammed pump, a seized valve, sludge or trapped air, which leave the boiler making heat faster than the system carries it away.
What this is not: the thermostat itself. That is the part reporting the problem, and replacing it alone means it trips again within days.
If it happens again after a proper cool down: stop resetting. There is a circulation fault, a pump problem or a blockage, and cleaning the system out deals with the cause where a component swap usually does not.
Leave it off to cool and tell us whether any radiator was cold beforehand.
The fan expels combustion products through the flue, and when it cannot do that safely the boiler locks out. A03 on most Vokera ranges, E030 on Evolve combi and system models.
This is the clearest example of the format problem. Two identical faults, two different codes, and somebody searching for one will find nothing at all about the other.
What this normally turns out to be: the fan itself, its wiring, or the plug at the fan. As on most makes it is normally audible for weeks first, so a Vokera that has sounded rough for a month was warning you.
Worth ruling out first: the flue. A terminal packed with leaves or nesting material makes a healthy fan work against resistance the board reads as a fault, and checking costs nothing where a fan does not.
Why it deserves respect: the fan and flue carry combustion products out of the building. This is not a code to keep resetting past.
Has it been noisy lately, or did it stop without warning?
This is the single most useful thing to know about a Vokera, and almost no general code list explains it.
A codes, such as A01, A02 and A03. The most widely used format across the range, including Easi-Heat.
AL codes, such as AL40. Used on Mynute models. Same underlying faults, different labels.
E codes, such as E10, E020 and E030. Used on the newer Evolve combi and system boilers, and generally more detailed than the A format.
Why this matters more than it sounds: the safety logic behind the codes is the same across all three, but the labels are not. A fan fault, an overheat and an ignition failure each have three names depending on which Vokera you own. Search for one and you will find guidance written about a boiler that is not yours.
What to do: read us the code and the range name in the same breath. On this brand those two together are the diagnosis and either one alone is not.
Which format is on your screen? It identifies the range before you find the label.
Vokera displays carry status indicators alongside fault codes, and the two look similar enough that people book emergency call-outs over them.
The one that causes the most calls: P. It means the boiler is keeping the hot water side warm so that taps run hot faster. It is a feature working correctly, not a fault, and it explains the boiler firing when nobody has asked for anything.
_CL is worth acting on, just not urgently. Book a service rather than a repair.
Everything still working? Then this is probably a status, not a fault.
Vokera use a red and green indicator system that gives you the category of problem before you get to a code, and on models without a display it is all you get.
Why it is useful even when you do have a display: a steady red tells you the boiler stopped for a reason it could not safely run through, so the fault is a genuine lockout rather than a status. That distinction changes how urgently it needs looking at.
What to do: note what the front panel shows while the fault is up. On the models with no display that reading is the entire diagnosis, and it saves an engineer working it out from scratch on the doorstep.
Describe the lights over the phone and we can usually place it.
| Code | What the boiler is saying | What it usually turns out to be |
|---|---|---|
| E10 | Flame lockout, on Evolve models | Read exactly as A01 above |
| E020 | Limit thermostat, on Evolve models | Read exactly as A02 above |
| E030 | Fan fault, on Evolve models | Read exactly as A03 above |
| _St | Autostop | A safety stop. Find what caused it |
| _CL | Call for service | Not a fault. Book the annual check |
| P | Preheat function active | Not a fault. A feature working correctly |
| Steady red light | Full lockout | Overheat, fan or pump, depending on the model |
| Red and green together | Sensor or pressure | A temperature sensor, or pressure out of range |
Vokera boilers reset in three completely different ways depending on the range. Easi-Heat and Mynute models have a reset button, usually marked R, which is held for three to five seconds until the error stops flashing. Linea and Compact A models reset through a mode selector dial instead. Older Unica and Flowmatic models use the temperature dial. So there is no single answer to how you reset a Vokera, and being told to press a button you do not have is not your fault.
A good share of the Vokera calls we take turn out to be a feature working correctly, or a boiler nobody can identify.
The heating is off, no taps are running, and the boiler lights for a minute or two anyway. It sounds like a fault and it is usually the preheat function.
What preheat does: keeps the hot water side of the boiler warm so that a tap runs hot in seconds rather than in half a minute. To do that it fires briefly at intervals whether or not anybody is using anything.
How to confirm it: look for a P on the display. A steady P means preheat is enabled, and a blinking P means it is running at that moment.
What it costs you: a small amount of gas for a noticeable amount of convenience. Most models let it be turned off, which is worth considering in a flat where the taps are close to the boiler anyway and the benefit is smaller.
When it is not preheat: if the boiler is firing for long periods with nothing calling, or the radiators get warm when the heating is off, that is a different problem and worth looking at.
Is there a P on the display? That usually settles it. Call 0203 868 6134.
You have been told to reset the boiler, you have taken the front panel off, and there is no button. Nothing is wrong with your eyesight.
Three different systems: Easi-Heat and Mynute models have a reset button, usually marked R, held for three to five seconds. Linea and Compact A models reset through the mode selector dial. Older Unica and Flowmatic models use the temperature dial.
Why this matters beyond convenience: people who cannot find a reset assume the boiler is beyond saving, or start switching it off and on at the wall repeatedly, which runs a full ignition cycle each time and wears the electrodes.
Before you do anything: note the code or the light pattern. Resetting clears it from the display, and on a boiler that then works for a fortnight, that lost code is the only evidence anybody had.
One attempt only. If it locks out again straight away, stop and call somebody. Repeated resets hide a fault that is still there.
Tell us the range and we will talk you through the right method. Call 0203 868 6134.
Vokera is a UK and Ireland brand going back more than thirty five years, and its parent is the Riello Group, a heating manufacturer established in 1922.
Why that is worth knowing: Vokera is treated by some as a small or unfamiliar badge, which shows up in quotes as long lead times and inflated parts prices. The engineering behind it is not small at all.
What to ask if you get that answer: which part specifically, and which supplier was checked. A genuine availability problem names a part. A vague answer about the brand being obscure is not a diagnosis.
Where it is genuinely true: the oldest ranges, the Flowmatic and early Unica models, where availability rather than cost starts to decide whether a repair happens at all. We will tell you when you have reached that point rather than after you have paid for a diagnosis.
Easi-Heat, Easi-Heat Plus, Easi-Heat i, Mynute, Mynute i, Mynute HE, Linea, Linea One, Unica, Unica MAX, Compact A, Vision, Vision Plus, Evolve, Pinnacle, Synergy and Vibe MAX are not variations on one boiler.
Why the list matters: which range you have decides the code format, the reset method and the parts list. Three separate things, all determined by a name on a label that plenty of people have never read.
What goes wrong: a code is looked up against the wrong range, a plausible answer comes back and the wrong part is ordered. On this brand that is a common route to paying for two visits instead of one.
What to do: read us the whole label rather than just the name. The serial number identifies the range and the revision, and it is the fastest way to settle every one of those three questions at once.
A third of these have no reset button
Easi-Heat and Mynute models have one. Linea and Compact A reset through the mode selector dial. Older Unica and Flowmatic use the temperature dial. So being told to press reset is useless advice on this brand.
The label is behind the front panel. On this make the range name settles three separate questions at once.
Vokera name the range, then the output, then a letter for the type. An Easi-Heat Plus 29C is an Easi-Heat Plus rated 29 kilowatts.
If your letter is S, there is stored hot water somewhere in the property and the cylinder is as likely to be the fault as the boiler is.
Easi-Heat, Easi-Heat Plus and Easi-Heat i are the ranges most often on London walls. A codes, reset button.
Mynute, Mynute i and Mynute HE use AL codes and a reset button.
Evolve, in combi and system versions, uses the more detailed E codes.
Linea, Linea One and Compact A reset through a mode selector dial rather than a button.
Unica, Unica MAX and Flowmatic are the older side, where the temperature dial does the resetting and availability starts to matter.
Pinnacle, Synergy, Vision, Vision Plus and Vibe MAX round out the range in combi and system versions.
On Vokera the range name answers three questions at once, which is why getting it wrong costs more here than on most makes: it decides the code format, the reset method and the parts list.
The serial number and GC number on the label identify exactly which revision is on your wall, and they are what gets an engineer to the correct fault table rather than a general one written for a different range.
Read us the whole label when you ring, not just the range name. It takes ten seconds and it is the difference between the right part arriving and a second visit. It is true of all the makes we cover, not just this one.
London is a hard water city almost everywhere, and that is the single biggest difference between repairing a Vokera here and repairing one in Manchester or Glasgow.
The supply comes off the Thames and the Lea, both of which run through chalk in the Chilterns and the North Downs. London water measures roughly 277 milligrams of calcium carbonate per litre, and across the city's postcode districts the figure runs from about 250 to over 350. Inside a combi that has one consequence: the plate heat exchanger furs up, and it does it faster than the service intervals in the manual assume.
It is the same story in Chiswick and Bedford Park as it is in Sanderstead and Selsdon. The water is hard, the plate heat exchanger scales, and the only question is whether anybody checks it before condemning the boiler.
Hardness is not uniform, and it does not follow borough boundaries. It varies by supply zone and can change over a short distance, so your supplier publishes a figure for your own postcode and it is worth reading before anybody guesses.
Scale drops out of solution faster the hotter the water gets. A combi set to deliver taps at 65 degrees furs up its plate heat exchanger noticeably faster than one set to 50, which is still hot enough to scald. Turning that dial down costs nothing and is the most effective thing a householder in a hard water area can do. This applies to the tap setting, not to a cylinder, which must reach 60 degrees for safety.
Larger London houses keep stored hot water, and a combi cannot replace it however good the badge is.
Combi-only is the norm among London firms, and in a city full of large period houses that leaves a lot uncovered. A Vokera system or heat only boiler runs a separate cylinder with its own thermostat, immersion element and, if unvented, its own safety devices. So the commonest wrong call-out on this arrangement is the hot water going, the boiler getting blamed, and the boiler turning out to be in perfect health.
The cylinder sensor sits in a pocket on the tank and tells the boiler what the stored water is doing. When it fails, or simply works its way out of that pocket, the boiler stops heating the cylinder while the radiators carry on perfectly, which is exactly why the appliance gets blamed.
The motorised valve decides whether the boiler is heating radiators, the cylinder, or both. A failed motor or microswitch gives you one without the other, and on most installations the head changes without draining the system down.
The immersion element scales and either trips its thermostat or stops heating. Worth testing before anybody condemns a tank, because an element costs a fraction of one. Large houses on stored hot water, of the kind we see across Esher, Claygate and Thames Ditton, often have a scale reducer fitted at the same visit.
An unvented cylinder is a pressure vessel. It carries an expansion vessel, a pressure reducing valve, an expansion relief valve and a temperature and pressure relief valve, all discharging through a tundish. Water running at the tundish means one of them has failed. Do not leave it and never cap it off.
Unvented work is notifiable and needs a G3 qualification on top of Gas Safe registration. Our engineers hold both, so the boiler and the cylinder are dealt with on one visit rather than two appointments and two charges. That is why unvented cylinder repair sits alongside the boiler work instead of being farmed out.
Swapping stored hot water for a combi to free an airing cupboard is the change people most often ask us to reverse. A combi cannot run two showers at once, whatever the output on the box, because it heats water as it passes rather than storing it. In a house with three bathrooms the honest answer is usually to keep the cylinder and spend the money replacing it if it is old, rather than removing it.
We would rather tell you a boiler is worth keeping than sell you one you do not need. Age alone does not decide it. Which part has failed decides it.
| What has failed | Under 8 years | 8 to 14 years | 15 years and older |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure sensor, temperature sensors | Repair | Repair | Repair if parts exist |
| Ignition and sensing electrodes | Repair | Repair | Repair if parts exist |
| Expansion vessel, pump | Repair | Repair | Repair |
| Fan | Repair | Repair | Depends on the rest of the boiler |
| Diverter valve, plate heat exchanger | Repair | Repair | Repair if the part is still made |
| Gas valve | Repair | Depends on the rest of the boiler | Replace |
| Control board | Check the guarantee first | Borderline, we will be straight with you | Replace |
| Main heat exchanger | Guarantee claim if registered | Usually replace | Replace |
Parts are all current, and at this age a fault is almost always one component rather than an appliance reaching the end. An electrode, sensor, fan or pump on a six year old Easi-Heat or Evolve is a repair, without qualification.
Tell us when you ring whether the guarantee is still in date, if you know. Vokera registered guarantees run for a set term from installation and are usually conditional on annual servicing, which is one more reason not to ignore a _CL on the display.
Anybody quoting a new boiler at this age should be asked which component went, and what that component costs alone. The gap between those two answers is usually the whole conversation.
Still a clear repair: electrodes, sensors, fan, pump, expansion vessel, diverter valve. Ordinary wear items that say nothing about the condition of the rest of the boiler.
The point specific to this brand: ask which range the quote is based on. A Vokera misidentified as a different range gets quoted for the wrong part, and on a make with three code systems and three reset methods that error is easier to make here than almost anywhere else.
The conversation changes with a main heat exchanger or a genuine board failure, or with a second significant failure inside a year. At that point the arithmetic favours replacing the boiler, and the question is what goes in the next two winters as much as what has gone today.
Past this point availability takes over from cost. The oldest Vokera ranges are where parts start to decide the outcome, and a Flowmatic or an early Unica can be mechanically sound and still finished because one component is no longer made.
These are also the models that reset through the temperature dial, so if that is how yours works you are almost certainly in this band whether or not anybody has told you.
Whether the part still exists is a question we will answer before you commit to a diagnosis. That question is free and on an older Vokera it is the one worth asking first. Our guide to repair and replacement costs sets out what actually drives the figure.
Local boiler repair specialists
Clear advice. Careful repairs. Family-friendly service.
Call 0203 868 6134London, north and south of the river. These are the districts we work in most.
These are where we work most, not a boundary. An engineer attends anywhere in north London and south London. Tell us where you are and we will say plainly when we can get to you.
If you smell gas: do not touch any switches. Open the windows, leave the property, then call the National Gas Emergency Service on 0800 111 999. That line is free and open 24 hours. Call them before you call us.
If a carbon monoxide alarm is sounding: get everyone out immediately, then call 999 if anyone feels unwell. Do not go back in until the property has been ventilated and checked.
If the boiler locks out repeatedly: try one reset. If it locks out again straight away, stop. Repeated resets hide a fault that is still there, and on a gas appliance that is not a risk worth taking.
Under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998, only a Gas Safe registered engineer may work on gas appliances. Never open the boiler casing yourself.
Because Vokera use three code formats across their ranges and most general lists only cover one. A codes such as A01 are the most widely used, AL codes appear on Mynute models, and the newer Evolve boilers use more detailed E codes. The same fan fault reads A03 on one boiler and E030 on another, so searching for one finds nothing about the other. Read us the code and the range name together, because on this brand either one alone is only half an answer.
It depends on the range, and a large part of the range does not have one. Easi-Heat and Mynute models have a reset button, usually marked R, which is held for three to five seconds until the error stops flashing. Linea and Compact A models reset through the mode selector dial instead. Older Unica and Flowmatic models use the temperature dial. Note the code before you reset, because resetting clears it from the display and that code may be the only evidence anybody gets.
A01 means the boiler tried to light and could not detect a flame, so it locked out. It is the most common Vokera fault, and it reads as E10 on Evolve models. Sometimes it follows a temporary gas interruption, in which case one reset clears it for good. Check whether a gas hob will light first, because no gas anywhere is not a boiler fault, and in winter check the condensate pipe outside for ice. If it keeps returning it points at the ignition system, gas valve or burner.
No. P means the preheat function is active, and a blinking P means it is running at that moment. Preheat keeps the hot water side warm so taps run hot in seconds rather than half a minute, which is why the boiler fires briefly when nobody has asked for anything. It is a feature working correctly. The other status indicators are similar: an underscore then St is an autostop, an underscore then CL is a service reminder, and a row of hours means standby.
Vokera use a red and green indicator system that gives you the category before any code. A steady green with no red means the burner is lit and the boiler is working correctly. Green off with a steady red means a full lockout, so the boiler has stopped for a fault it could not safely run through. Red and green together, steady or flashing, usually points at a temperature sensor or system pressure being out of range. note what the panel shows while the fault is up, because on models with no display that is the whole diagnosis.
Not for the current ranges. Vokera is a UK and Ireland brand going back more than thirty five years and its parent is the Riello Group, established in 1922, so the engineering behind it is not a small operation. If you have been told parts are scarce, ask which specific part and which supplier was checked, because a vague answer about the brand being unfamiliar is not a diagnosis. Genuine scarcity applies mainly to the oldest ranges such as Flowmatic and early Unica models.
The label is behind the front panel, and on this make it matters more than most because the range decides three things at once: the code format, the reset method and the parts list. Vokera name the range then the output then a letter, so an Easi-Heat Plus 29C is a combi rated 29 kilowatts, and S marks a system boiler with a cylinder somewhere. Read us the serial when you ring, not just the name. We work on every make of boiler.
We will not put a number on a repair before knowing what has failed, and you should be wary of anybody who will. What moves the number: which component failed, its availability, and how long the job takes once we are there. On a Vokera the range name settles the code system, the reset method and the parts list in one go. The rate is agreed beforehand and parts we fit are guaranteed for a year, so nothing is carried out on the assumption that you will approve it afterwards. There is no charge for telling you a repair is not the right call. Our guide to repair and replacement costs sets out what actually drives the figure.
Vokera sits under the Riello Group, which is why an engineer who knows Riello burners tends to be comfortable inside a Vokera.
No gas supply? Plenty of London flats run without one, and we also cover electric boiler repair.
If you cannot find the reset button on your Vokera you are not being slow, because a large part of the range does not have one. Give us the range name and the code and we will talk you through the right method.
Gas Safe registered. Unvented cylinder qualified. Parts guaranteed for a year. Covering London, north and south of the river, 24 hours a day.
